Flipping your manual pallet jack over - safely!

Here's how:

1. Clear it – Ensure no load is on the forks; lower forks fully.
2. Pick a clear, flat, non-slip surface with room to work, away from foot traffic.
3. Get a second person if possible — manual jacks typically weigh 150–250 lbs.
4. Check hydraulic unit orientation – Most manuals recommend tipping onto the side opposite the hydraulic reservoir/pump to avoid fluid leaking out through the vent.
5. Position the handle out of the way (usually folded flat or to the side) so it doesn't swing or trap fingers.
6. Grip the frame, not moving parts – Lift from the main chassis rails, keeping hands clear of wheels, forks, and linkage/pivot points.
7. Lift with proper form – Bend knees, straight back, lift with legs; tip slowly and controlled rather than dropping it over.
8. Brace it once flipped – Use blocks or chocks so it can't roll or rock while you work.
9. Wear gloves and steel-toe boots to protect against pinch points and impact if it shifts.

Go slow and controlled — most injuries happen from letting it drop the last few inches or fingers getting caught between the frame and floor.

Now you are ready for:

• Wheel repair/replacement – Load wheels or steer wheels get worn, cracked, or jammed with debris (shrink wrap, zip ties, dirt) and need cleaning or replacing. You can get Load wheels and/or steer wheels on our website - or better yet, get one of our handy wheel kits containing all the parts you need.

• Cleaning – Grime, spilled product, or debris builds up in the undercarriage and around the forks.
• Inspection – Routine safety checks on the frame, forks, and wheel assemblies, especially in a warehouse with regular equipment inspections.
• Stuck or bent forks – Straightening or inspecting fork damage from mishandling.

Need any other parts? Or any help, give our friendly Customer Service team a call at 800-331-0839 or e-mail us at csinfo@genericparts.com 

Got your sparkly new pallet jack. But wait: the handle is not attached!

To install a new pallet jack handle, first lower the jack completely by pressing the foot pedal. This will ensure that the unit doesn't come down unexpectedly onto your hands.

Assembly Steps

1. Remove the retaining pin: Use pliers to remove the cotter pin holding the handle axle and slide the axle out partially.
2. Position the handle: Place the handle assembly with the chain behind the roller and set the control lever in the down (pump) position. 
3. Route the control chain: Set the handle into the pump and partially slide the axle in so you can pivot it. Drop the control chain through the center hole in the handle axle. 
4. Secure the axle: Push the axle all the way in and use a hammer & pliers to install the roll pin to lock it into place. 
5. Release the return spring: Pull the handle down and remove the retaining pin holding the handle return spring so the handle can rise fully. 
6. Connect the chain: Attach the chain and connector to the foot pedal, then tighten the jam nut on top of the pedal finger-tight. 

You can follow along our step-by-step video: 

Testing the Jack

Since the handle comes pre-adjusted from the factory, you can test it directly: 

• Pump Mode: Pump the handle to ensure the jack goes up.
• Neutral Mode: Lift the lever into the neutral position; the jack should stay lifted but not rise as you pump. 

Are you replacing the handle? You can follow along this video

 

and get your new handle, and other replacement parts at Generic Parts Service.

Keep Your Carts Rolling When the Temperature Rises.

Heat eater casters are used anywhere carts, racks, or equipment need to move through very hot environments, such as bakery ovens, industrial furnaces, kilns, autoclaves, and sterilization areas. They’re built to keep rolling without melting, warping, or losing strength when exposed to heat and repeated cleaning cycles.

What to look for

• Temperature rating: Make sure the caster is rated for your actual operating temperature, not just room temperature. Standard casters often fail above about 150°F, while high-heat models are built for much hotter conditions.
• Load capacity under heat: Heat reduces capacity, so choose a caster with extra margin rather than one that barely matches the load.
• Wheel material: Phenolic, cast iron, forged steel, and high-temp nylon are common choices; avoid ordinary plastics for serious heat.
• Bearing and lubrication: Look for heat-resistant bearings and lubricants that can survive repeated hot cycles.
• Environment and cleaning: If the caster will face steam, washing, or corrosion, confirm it is suitable for wet or sanitizing conditions, not just dry heat.
• Wheel style and size: Swivel casters help with maneuvering, while larger wheels often roll easier over floors and thresholds.

Heat Eater Casters made out of Epoxy resin wheels offer superior moisture resistance and toughness, making them ideal for wash-down environments and food applications.
Constructed with solid epoxy resin, our wheels are designed primarily for rigorous environments involving harsh chemicals and moisture.  
The superior moisture resistance is making them safe for frequent wash-downs and ideal for food applications. 
They are inherently tough, resist shock, and are non-marking on floors.

Available as

High Temperature Caster Wheel Only, 4 X 1-1/2"

or as  Swivel Caster Complete Assembly

The safest purchase is the one matched to the full duty cycle: heat level, load, floor type, and how often the equipment will go in and out of the hot zone. For bakery, oven, and autoclave use, ask for the exact temperature limit, time-at-temperature rating, and any PSI or sterilization specs if applicable. A caster that works briefly at high heat may still fail if it has to live there all day.

A simple example: a bakery rack going into a 500°F oven needs a caster made for high-temp use, with enough capacity after heat derating and a material that won’t soften or crack.

We also have Casters for your Shopping Carts, Tray Carts, and Stocking Carts.

Why stock wheel kits for my pallet jacks?

 

The advantages of having kits on-hand: 

• Faster repairs. When a wheel fails, having the kit on hand gets equipment back in service sooner.

• Less downtime. Worn or damaged wheels can stop a pallet jack from moving properly, which can slow operations and create safety issues.

• Better consistency. Stocking the right kit for each common model helps avoid mismatched parts and repeat troubleshooting.

• Lower maintenance friction. Wheel kits are a normal wear-item for busy warehouses, especially where jacks are used daily.

• Protection for floors and products. Good wheels reduce noise, floor marking, and rough handling from damaged or dragging wheels.

When stocking makes the most sense

Stocking wheel kits is most useful if you have multiple pallet jacks, frequent wheel wear, rough floors, debris, wet docks, or hard-to-match equipment. 

It also makes sense if your team wants to avoid waiting on parts during peak hours.

Practical rule

If the same wheel issues keep coming up, stocking kits usually saves time and money versus buying parts one repair at a time. For a busy operation, it’s basically insurance against avoidable downtime.

For most pallet jacks, high-quality aftermarket wheel kits are usually the better value, while OEM is the safer choice when you need exact fit, warranty protection, or you’re standardizing on a manufacturer-approved part. Aftermarket wheels can often match or exceed OEM performance at a lower price, but quality varies more by supplier.

Generic Partswheel kits contain quality after-market replacement wheels, and the additional hardware, like bearings, axles and snap rings, is free.

Aftermarket wheels

Aftermarket kits are typically 30% to 50% cheaper than OEM replacements, which matters a lot if you maintain a fleet. Good polyurethane aftermarket wheels are often the sweet spot for indoor warehouse use because they balance durability, floor protection, and rolling performance. Different wheel materials are recommended for different applications. Read more about different wheel material.

Simple buying rule

• Choose aftermarket for cost savings, common models, and fast fleet maintenance.
• Choose OEM for warranty-sensitive jobs, or specialized jacks.

Generic Parts offers load wheel kits, since load wheels wear the most, and also complete wheel kits that include all the additional parts to replace the steer wheels.

When is a wheel too much worn?

When the diameter is about .25” from new. Read more about wheel inspection.

Not sure how to replace the wheels? Just follow our step-by-step video on replacing the load wheels, and on replacing the steerwheels on your pallet jack.

BTW we also have electric wheel kits for lift trucks and walkies.

Make sure to check our website for any other parts you might need!

Why are there different materials for load wheels? Which one should I choose?

What is the best load wheel material for your pallet jacks or electric lift trucks?

To answer that you’ll first have to answer: 

What are your floors like?

Here a short overview:

Retail / customer-facing floors: choose Poly
Why? They are quiet, non-marking, and gentler on finished floors

General warehouse: choose Ultra-poly
Why? Better rolling and longer life than standard poly while staying quiet and non-marking

Rough floors / debris / dock work: choose Nylon
Why? More durable for rough, wet, or debris-covered surfaces and outdoor ramps/docks

Freezer / cold storage: choose Nylon or ultra-poly
Why? Nylon handles harsh cold-duty environments well, while ultra-poly is noted for cold performance and durability

Heavy-load / high-abuse industrial use: choose Nylon
Why? Strong, durable, and better for demanding conditions than standard poly

Extreme-duty, specialty environments: choose Steel
Why? Best where debris and brute durability matter more than noise or floor protection

More details on each material:

Polyurethane (Poly)

Ideal for display floors, carpeting, and warehouses. They mark floors the least while rolling easily and make very little noise. These wheels can be very durable when used exclusively on smooth surfaces. 

But: Poly is not as tough as nylon, and wheels are easily damaged when running over debris. Moisture, oil or chemicals will easily degrade the material.

Ultra-Poly

They are longer lasting and they roll more easily than regular poly. Ultra-poly is very hard and won't shatter if too cold; and they are also non-marking.

Nylon

A harder material that is best for cold storage applications. And Nylon wheels can support greater weight capacity. Debris on the floor does not degrade the wheel as fast. It is also the material of choice for use in environments that may cause rust or corrosion like poultry processing, and working with seafood.   

But: Nylon wheels make more noise and can leave marks.

Steel Wheels

These are best for use on factory floors where there may be metal shavings or hard debris on the floor, and where noise is not an issue. They are the strongest and most durable - best for extreme loads and rough conditions.

But: very noisy

One or two?  

Replacing the whole load wheel bracket is more time-consuming and expensive than choosing two wheels during regular maintenance.

Because we so strongly advocate changing both at the same time we created wheel kits, and they are priced at a substantial discount.  

And how do I replace the load wheels?

Follow our step-by-step video:

Quality replacement parts for

electric lift trucks  and manual pallet jacks 

Fast Lift Parts is the world's largest supplier

of after-market pallet jack parts.

Order today at www.genericparts.com

800-331-0839     *      csinfo@genericparts.com

We go the extra mile

to make sure you get what you need

- fast.

Some Basics about Forklifts

Used or new forklift? Training? OSHA?

When do my forks NOT meet OSHA standards?

When 10% of the fork heel is worn – results in 20% loss of capacity. And while checking the wear,  always check for cracks and deflection too!

When do I buy a used forklift vs. a new one?

Rough guideline: If you use a forklift 3-4 hours a day, you may be better-served with a used one. More than 4 hours a day, buying a new forklift would be most beneficial. 
Keep in mind, environment, hours used, emission restrictions, and general application may require the purchase of a new forklift.

What kind of training is required to operate a forklift?

You’ll need a valid state driver’s license and on the job operator training. In addition, OSHA requires that each forklift operator completes forklift safety training. OSHA may even conduct surprise inspections and penalties for non-compliance can go up to $7,000. 

Visit www.osha.gov for more information on training compliance.

Where do I get quality replacement parts?

That one is easy. On our website 24/7 

We have replacement parts - like Mast Chains, Seats, Lights, Horns, Backup Alarms, Starters, Alternators, and more  - for all major brands. 

Call us if you don't find what you need!

What do you mean by "bleeding" your jack?

A manual pallet jack is usually bled by pumping the handle up and down the hydraulics with the jack unloaded and the control in the lower position until all air is purged and the lift becomes firm.

Why would I need to do this?

Air can seep into the hydraulic system. This could be caused by improper handling, such as tilting the pallet jack. When air gets into the system, it hinders the hydraulics from working and the pallet jack won’t lift anymore. Bleeding your jack releases the air.

And how do I bleed my jack?

Safety and prep

Park the pallet jack on a flat, stable floor and block the wheels so it won't roll.
Remove any load.

Bleeding

This is the procedure for most standard jacks (no opening screws):

• Set the operating lever to “lift.”
• Push the handle all the way down until it stops.
• Move the lever to “lower.”
• With the lever held in “lower,” pump the handle up and down vigorously 10–20 times.
• Return the lever to “neutral” or “lift” and test lifting the empty forks. If lift has improved, test with a light load.

Repeat the sequence several times if the first cycle only partially improves lift.

What do I do if the jack still will not lift?

Set the lowering valve to its lowest setting, remove or open the reservoir fill plug, and verify the fluid is up to the correct level; top up if low.

After refilling, cycle the handle 10–20 times with the control in “lower” to purge any remaining air.

If it still won't lift, you may have worn seals, a faulty valve, or internal damage that requires a new seal kit or professional service: Email your pallet jack brand and model, and an outline of your problem, to csinfo@genericparts.com and we will provide technical help.

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